interview: 14oz and bread & butter's karl-heinz muller

Mpdclick talks to BREAD & BUTTER and 14oz founder Karl-Heinz Mϋller for an insight into his re-ignited retail endeavour, '14oz', how Bread & butter has continued to hail as the 'must see' trade fair in the world, and asks what is the key to brand success... Mpdclick: Why did you first decide to open 14oz, and has your decision to do so influenced your work with Bread & Butter? Karl-Heinz Mϋller: Before BREAD & BUTTER, I owned 14 oz. in Cologne. I sold high-end street- and urbanwear, for example Premium and vintage lines from Levi's, Evisu, Adidas, Duffer of St. George, Maharishi, The Great China Wall. These labels have boycotted the traditional fairs since they felt they weren't the right platform for them. To order these labels for my shop, I often had to travel the whole world.

Mpdclick: The main product focus of 14oz is denim – why was this chosen, and who is your target customer?

Karl-Heinz Mϋller: The core of BREAD & BUTTER is denim, I myself worked for a long time in the denim industry and my personal big passion is denim. I also realised that a really good denim store, where you can find a wide variety of high quality products, is very hard to find. There are beautiful and great denims, products and designers out there, but it is very hard to find them outside the US and Japan.

Our target customers are well informed about brands and product manufacturing. They appreciate high quality and spend more money on products which in return they will have for a long time. This is the main idea of our brand portfolio: to provide the customer with a timeless wardrobe which will accompany her or him for a long time. Products which tell a story, which have a heritage and an individual philosophy are the right products for people who look for authenticity, honesty, reliability – values which again become more and more important.

Mpdclick: The brands chosen for sale in 14oz are all of a high quality and authenticity. In your opinion, has the importance of product quality to consumers increased since the recession?

Karl-Heinz Mϋller: Product quality has always played a significant role for consumers – but indeed awareness had risen significantly. It might have had another increase since recession, but the trend towards quality has started already a couple of years ago. The world is spinning faster and faster, with internet 24/7 everything is available whenever you want, people, especially in the big cities, face their everyday life in the fast lane. They need something reliable, which stays with them for longer than just a click. Also, the consumer is becoming more interested – where does something come from, how is it made, and what are the consequences for society and nature? All in all, I believe the change of awareness is the natural consequence of society's change during the last 20 years.

Mpdclick: Many of the brands sold in 14oz are also eco-conscious and committed to reducing their impact on the environment. How else does 14oz aim to help the environment, and is this an issue that is close to your heart?

Karl-Heinz Mϋller: Many of the brands which are sold at 14 oz. have very strict manufacturing processes and produce eco-consciously. However, all brands sold at 14 oz. orient themselves at the principle "sustainability by longevity", they are united by originality, high quality, tradition. The brands go much further than only short-termed measures within one product cycle. High quality materials are being used that explicitly are not produced in low wages countries, but generally in Europe, the US and Japan.

These products are configured from the beginning to last long over years, to conserve their characteristics and be part of a timeless and long lasting wardrobe. Far away from a "throw away" mentality, the usage rate of water and cotton can be reduced on the long term.

Mpdclick: 14 oz places a strong emphasis on customer service, and offers customers an exquisite personal shopping experience and VIP areas. What other customer relationship management techniques do you use, and how are these important to your brand?

Karl-Heinz Mϋller: I actually wouldn't call it customer relations techniques. Everything offered in the store in terms of service is based on what I myself would like to find in the perfect store where I can totally concentrate on the product I'm going to buy. We have a locker room where people can store their coats and handbags, a special wardrobe with a mirrored hallway so the ladies can see themselves first before presenting themselves to the salesman. Our staff are very well informed and take the time to explain the products. They will not sell you something just for the sake of it. We want to build up a long lasting relationship with our clients; we want them to come to 14 oz. as the first address when they need a new piece for their wardrobe.

Mpdclick: The store's interior decoration borrows many Parisian styles and features vintage furniture from the flea markets of Paris. Where has this influence originated from and why has it been chosen for the brand?

The concept of the interior perfectly matches the products – they are solid, beautiful and long lasting furnitures and elements which go hand in hand with the brands available at 14 oz.

Mpdclick: Of all the trade shows on the calendar Bread & Butter is the one that everyone wants to attend, for many reasons, including the collective spirit and sense of fun that the show adopts. Do you attribute the continued success of the show to the creation of an eclectic 'Bread & Butter Community?'

Karl-Heinz Mϋller: The community aspect of BREAD & BUTTER has been a firm part of our concept since day one. BREAD & BUTTER has started very small, with only 50 brands in 2001 in Cologne. The concept of the fair at this time was revolutionary in all aspects, so the first protagonists were very much involved in the development of the fair from the start. The integration of key industry leaders – exhibitors, visitors and press representatives – has always been a firm part. We always stay very close to the market, and emphasise communication with the market and its leaders. Only by exchanging with the market protagonists and staying close to our community, we can give the right answers to the market's needs. BBB's 11 commandments tell us to "be open to a visionary future" what your plans for the future of BREAD & BUTTER?

We will for sure not stand still nor rest on our laurels, we are still hungry. In the future, we will work on developing everything further in terms of quality and profile. We work very close together with the brands in order to get to know what they need and we are very often involved in their plans. The development of our kidswear format, the B&B KIDS CAMP, which celebrated its premiere during last BBB, will be one of our main focuses for the next editions. This segment is very strong and progressive and has a huge potential. We will work on establishing an international kidswear format for the industry. Also with the area L.O.C.K., which stands for Labels of Common Kin, we are very far in the development; during last BBB it took place for the third time. We will also work on the development of the area and believe it builds big bridges between BREAD & BUTTER and 14 oz. With everything we will go much further in the future.

Mpdclick: BBB celebrates the idea of authenticity - economic crisis pushed this concept to the forefront and 'authenticity' has become somewhat of a buzzword in terms of fashion and lifestyle design. In your opinion, alongside this revered authentic quality, what values should a brand uphold to ensure success?

Karl-Heinz Mϋller: Many brands in the Street and Urbanwear segment have developed on the basis of their history and their roots. The transportation of a story, of values which makes the brand unique into today often is the basis for a successful brand position. Many aspects may play a role here, design, music, art etc. However, authenticity and individual values are not the warranty for having success with a brand, this is rather the basis for image and brand building. As important is product, distribution, liquidity, marketing etc. – it is as important to work on an honest, trustworthy and reliable basis with your partners and suppliers. Values are not words or tools; they should be a natural part of any cooperation. This will reflect in the product and the external brand building and be part of the success.